If you’re getting upset reading this and want to get all defensive and butthurt about it, that’s okay. Check Out My Photo Sets on Flickr, "All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!". I like your style and mostly agree with what you said above. The thinned paint gives me much greater control of the final “dirtiness” of the project. People fallow this trend because it’s easier to just watch some online tutorials and learn “the only right method” instead of discovering your own way by practicing. I do love your work. All of these under the mighty words of the “experts”and “judges”: -“Your model is too clean…”, -“this model is too monochromatic…”. That same gap on a model would disappear if scaled correctly (which would look stupid and toy like) so panel lines are added. I completely agree with your post. I grew up around aircraft, and I fly them. Shade in different colors. I would tend to agree, and as you have stated, the examples are stunning models in their own right, but far from realistic. It’s been described in the The Modeling News article: This is part of why I’ve become such a huge dork for Ammo’s panel line washes (that and how easy they are to use). Black Voodoos! Nor would the egress hatches be open. I say keep at it as there’s so many die hard know-it-all modellers out there that need to have their pot stirred from time to time. Best regards, D.C. OK, now I can see the difference now and I understand. Have not painted any model kits for a few years and want to return to the hobby. Steve O. Reno They all have there merits and they can all be done to a varying degree of success. On large models there are a lot of panel lines and each one needs to be done individually. Since, a plane/helo would not weather evenly as time goes. If you do not like rigging, do not build planes that had rigging. I do believe there needs to be some “proof” of artistic license when weathering any aircraft. I really agree with this. Or at least, that is not my intent. Anyone who understands aircraft knows that airplanes are clean. A simple solution: Use the unseenunderside of an aircraft wing, car body or ship hull to practice a little. http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/09/takom-whippet-mka-build-pt-iii-painting.html. And the surfaces of the aircraft itself are filthy, especially around the wingroots. Your example of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an extreme. First up, my Revell PV-1 Ventura. I’m not saying that’s right, I’m just saying whatever floats your boat. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. The author (Jose Luis Lopez Ruiz) is a renowned modeler and in fact considered to be the pioneer of b&w shading, so without doubt the work is worthy (marvelous even, it’s in 1/48 scale !!!). A judge sees the Over I thought it was just me needing practice, but the more time I spent looking at the models of those much more experienced in the method, the less I liked it there too. Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email. Pretty hard to say they are dirty planes. I’ve seen this post since a few months it was published, it was like you take words/ideas out of my mind about this topic and you wrote it down in a brilliant way. I’ve been black basing armor for years and it works wonders but haven’t tried it on a flying machine yet. My main point is this – if you took a real plane, and shrank it down to 1/32 scale – it would look terrible. I mean, I get it. Change ). First up, we have a very nice 1/32 Su-25 Frogfoot that was on the tables at ModelFiesta in San Antonio back in February. So first build for FUN and Yourself! The problem is an issue of size which is different than scale. In the case of models, some people would argue that shadows and highlights are needed to bring out the detail, that color modulation will give a 3D volume effect…to a 3D model! (Yes, I saw the F-18, it’s an anomaly.) I realize beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder…..Painting A MODEL airplane in 1/100th or 1/72 or 1/48 or 1/32 or 1/24 is A Delicate For instance, panel lines may not even be visible on a real aircraft from a distance of 200 feet, but a model still looks more realistic when the panel lines have been traced with dark ink. I’ve seen a technique in which you sand down the top color to show the base color underneath (usually the primer and or the bare metal) Would this not lend itself to same issues as pre/post shading? Very interesting post on panel line shading and pre-shading/black basing. What kind of armor? And that is in no way my intent. Be careful the panel line of C model is different from B and J model. It’s true that modern non-reflective paint is a dirt-magnet, but at least in the USAF the planes are washed every 1-2 weeks (via a drive-through wash station). I’ve found a very elaborate tutorial on the “black & white shading” method: http://dqscaleworks.blogspot.com.es/2013/05/the-black-technique-tiger-i-148-by-jose.html. I think your work is great!! RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. It’s supposed to be fun as well. Personally, these days I only use sweeping sprays for clear coats or something like dust effects on tank side skirts. I have used the black basing technique on a 1/48 Typhoon as a first-up trial, pleased with the subtle final effect and will certainly use it again. Then lighten each color and spray from the center of each panel to Almost the edge. Clearly in Doogs examples there are some that are too much, but that is the opposite of “nothing at all” which I think is worse and as pointed out makes the model look like a toy. First, they need to learn how paint layers before they can try to properly cover a dark black base coat. I reshared with some others modellers, same reaction, if no words could be noted as reject of yours ideas. You spent Hundreds of Hours on the model! It makes for a cool model but not realistic. Gotta find some pics... By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. A few years ago when I was tackling Trumpeter’s P-47, I ran out of my preferred black primer, so instead I primed and then shaded with a whole lot of different dark grays, greens, browns and so on. Black-basing solves the contrast problem of pre-shading just the panel lines. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Note: I feel I should restate it here: if you’re going after a stylized representation, then by all means go to town. Another technique I think puts too much emphasis on surface features is spraying a darker shade over tape strip masks to highlight rib detail on fabric control surfaces/wings. Weathering uniformity is another aspect of the problem (perhaps especially on ships): great flat expanses are left bright shiny & new, while the engine & exhaust areas are black with soot and oil. But if he made claims impressionism was “realistic”, there would be a lot of laughing. Some panels are dark due to grime or whatnot, but it’s definitely not uniform. Too light! My memory of the final awards is a bit hazy – I do seem to remember it making off with something above and beyond best aircraft though. If you’re doing it for stylistic reasons, fine. Yeah there’s some weathering that aligns with panel lines, but a lot of times, it’s a more random variation than that. I’ve seen tanks and ships so dark painted, that now I call these times “the dark ages of scale modeling”, and modelers that have crossed to the “Dark Side”. Ok Pre Shading…WHO Invented or is Responsible for the technique? Composite material also has contributed to those secondary objectives as saving of assembling manpower. While I have yet to even try pre/post shading on a build, I can see who the uniformity of it make a build unrealistic. Too each his own. I mean, just look at that B-1. One of the examples I’m going to show won at the IPMS Nationals this year, so clearly there is some subjectivity at work. I was a contest judge for 7 years within my local IPMS chapter (I no longer am a member because of job constraints). It’s…awful. I do weathering around With my experience in Proto:87 modeling, I returned to LSP and was amazed at the leveling of modeling skill I saw. are Three Dimensional Art…With that said We “Artists” have Artistic License…If you go to a model But…I have to show examples of what I’m talking about. The challenge is that any kind of wash on raised lines will just provide shading on both sides of the line and that looks horrendous. For me, i can read again and again this article because is “so satisfying” know out there are modellers who think as same manner of you. Change ), You are commenting using your Facebook account. I really do like the pre-shading but in a lighter tone, too. The panel lines on the model are first darkened, then over-sprayed with the base color. Great information. It looks like more work (you have to add the white highlights layer before colours), but I think the outcome looks well. When judging an aircraft category I would dock points for an unrealistic finish and any model that was pre-shaded moved down my list. Our good friend and scale modeling expert, Mike Chilson filmed this interesting How To video to show how he applies accurate panel lines on his present building project, the P-51A Mustang. Yeah, I’ve seen the B&W Tiger. I flew a B-52 with dark great all over and a single white FLIR pod that when rotated closed looked like a single tooth. I will attempt priming in black now. That’s not to say a lot of these builds aren’t stunning – I think they are. Outside of my issues with the shading, agreed. But, it was unusual to see the amount of work “preshading” was and why anyone would do it. Bellow is the link to work in progress: https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064483-revell-148-p-61-black-widow-midnight-mickey/. Wish I could help you more, Marc…my MO with raised line kits is to not build them…but I would focus more on variation in the paintwork itself, working in layers that way. I appreciate the common sense approach which I find lacking in this hobby at times. All of the fine detail and shadow you see on pictures of the real thing would literally disappear. The panel lines were very slightly darker, but nowhere near as contrasty as black-and-gray. Greattings from Mexico City. I’ve seen some beautiful builds ruined because of this technique. Argument as to Why Panelines are so Dark and Over Weathering. (unless you build for $). ( Log Out /  Applying Panel Lines And Rivets By Stephen Carr Look at any full size metal skinned aircraft, and you will see numerous panels of aluminium curved and formed to achieve a three-dimensional shape. At the end it all boils down to a couple of things: 1) Build for yourself; do what you want with your model and maybe you wont win many contests (if that is your goal of modeling) but you will win personal satisfaction. Not that it doesn’t LOOK good, it often makes for some very dramatic and striking models. Now, I hate to speak ill of others’ work. But it doesn’t belong in scale model building. Even the finest panel lines would scale out to 1/2 inch gaps on a real plane but are necessary to make the model look “real”. For those unsure about black undercoating, many miniature painters use black undercoat exclusively. Scott – I highly recommend checking out my black basing post that’s linked in the article. That said, almost any panel line shading tends to look horrible on any NMF subject. I haven't built my F-117 yet but I would think a med-light grey and maybe even browns -tan would work. This Su-25 was beautiful…until you see those panel lines, and then you can’t unsee them. Change ), You are commenting using your Google account. Black panel lines on an all-white airplane are too stark; use medium gray. So I gave “black and white shading” a try on a 1/72 Sherman earlier this year and it came out a total mess. To participate you must either login or register for an account. I attended the model fiesta for the first time this year and i had a blast. ( Log Out /  Aircraft are over weathered just as everyone has commented on. The guy behind the … Weathering. Sitting in the sun fades paint (less color saturation), which also makes panel lines disappear. The paint, decals,contruction first class! I go to You Tube and watch an individual do a Wonderful job gluing the cockpit parts and doing All the putty work….Only to see them TAKE BLACK PAINT and paint the Entire model including the cockpit Boy, a nearly 3 year old topic…but spot on in conversation. I would actually argue that most aircraft are not “overweathered” but improperly weathered. Gary. Not everything has to be black or dark brown. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Just curious. Good article and well written. Yes WE All have our ways we build..But One thing I Arm myself with is Photographic Proof of the aircraft I’ve built. But I still have kits in 1:72 that I’d hate to sell. if you're using light gray as top coat, try a dark shade of gray (don't use black it self, the effect will look too strong). I'm sorry, this is my pet hate, light coloured cars with black panel lines, I did it myself early on but I regret it. Also, while I prefer priming with black, which is the same as pre-shading, I never suggest it for beginners since this can be difficult to paint over. I dont know why it didnt won best of the show I would be interest to see how you would adapt your black basing technique to bare metal finishes. Combined with various weathering techniques, it gave me a wonderful surface finish where the rivets and panel lines were subtly called out, but not overpowering. So, how much hate mail have you gotten yet for daring to call out peoples’ builds? After preshading the whole model apply a coat of future. The panel shading only really pulled through on the Intermediate Blue fuselage sides. Sorry, I digress. Back to your pot stirring. is first looked at for Uniformity, If you OVER Weather it….To you it looks great! Now it’s quite some time since I painted a plane, haven’t built much at all this year. Execution of either method is the key, not necessarily one method over another. A quick pass with the base color covers a multitude of sins. In other words, you’re no longer using the oft-taught method of sweeping back and forth across a large area when you spray. If you are building for a particular audience then you have to build to their liking.The battle between paying the bills and doing it how we wish is the heartache of every artist be they a painter, photographer, or even a modeller. Add another layer of … A Facebook commenter mentioned Monet, and I think that’s a fitting example! Your parts are straight, clear parts crystal! For that reason alone, it’s often one of those game-changers that elevates people’s build quality, and I think that may be why so many stick with it so doggedly. I think a lot of people would like to see it. My point, maintenance was alway s painting, repainting and sometimes using different panels from other sources as well as walking on and handling different panels with varying degrees of oily/greasy shoes and hands/gloves. I agree completely about pre-shading. The main reason that I usually try some form of highlighting is … Not a fan of sanding, either, since to me it gets too stark too quickly. Contrasty, yet not exaggerated. I have witnessed multi hues of panels . Pre-shading is also being overdone in the armor community. And with Black Basing, you can still get that Just a Liitle note on the p47 that won the nationals … that model did NOT won the best of the show on Model Fiesta, The winner was a Ferrari transporter. I’m guilty of preshading myself but I’ve tried to make the end result more subtle in the past than we see on your examples. Nothing looks more contrived, in my opinion, than heavy-handed pre-shading or excessively-highlighted panel lines. Thanks and keep up the great work! I think the issue is one of intensity, not method. There is No right or wrong in modeling….Just Alot of Opinions.. Hi, I just started following you after seeing some of your work and thoughts about the hobby in general. I just got back to modelling few months ago after a 20 year break, and I still got a lot to learn. Washing panel lines, especially on large models, can be quite time-consuming. For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining. Have been practicing with an airbrush and am looking forward to trying some of your techniques. Only to be Messed up by Pre Shading and Over Weathering. Clearly it’s not stark black lines, but if the light is right the panel lines are very visible. That created a nice contrast. If you’re working on a very dark aircraft… black, blue, etc., try using a shade of gray to highlight panel lines, something that is lighter than the aircraft color. If you make it up as a plane that's in the desert it would have a lot of tan dust on it that would show real well against the black. as You built it. I have a picture of a Thunderbirds F-16 from the top and I was amazed at how stark every single panel line was. Up until part IV I would even say it’s very realistic (or at least gives that impression), but somewhere around when the author applies oils and dirt, it went (for me) over the edge. I love your work, and your philosophies about painting/shading models. I as well, agree with what you say Matt. I used to pre-shade, until I came to see that all it was doing was swinging the pendulum too far to the other extreme. Warm base colors can be shaded with cold shadows in places where shadows would naturally occur, and vice versa, cold base shaded with warm shadows. Post shading is the way to go, which is essentially what black-basing is; you are just post shading the entire top coat color (if that makes sense). I’m curious if this style comes from a different culture of modelling, Japanese liking things tidy etc, or these Japanese brands just prefer to show off their models as pristine as possible. Eh. Weathering Aircraft with Geoff Coughlin There are many ways that you can highlight the panel lines on aircraft and we are steadily getting through as many of them as we can in your SMN Techniques Bank! ( Log Out /  I am curious though… when black basing aircraft, if you over do it and apply too much base coat do you go back and reapply the black base coat? This is all art. The Tiger from nice worn panzer grey turned to “sewage grey”. Also.. as primer, it’s totally another form of “pre” shading. Combined with various weathering techniques, it gave me a wonderful surface finish where the rivets and panel lines were subtly called out, but not overpowering. In short, my issue with all the panel shading nonsense is that it only pays attention to a specific feature of the aircraft’s surface, at the expense of the rest. The Whole effect is that you have a model that is not in the “Darkness”. But I think the current style is somewhat overplayed. To me the key here is subtlety. But to my eyes if not the judges, the panel shading on the cowl panels and inside the ammo bay doors is just way too pristine. That’s where the patchwork comes in (IMO). I can easily believe that many modelers want that look exactly. Manufacturers of not only commercial airplanes but also military planes and helicopters have developed various usage of composite material. ), but I do have a few examples. In every case, objectives of using of composite material have been to reduce weight of planes and to have highly performing flying machines. Insightful. Verisimilitude – “lifelikeness”, the appearance of being real. One side favoring the builder who sees a black and white world and the other favoring those frolicking artist types. I am really interested in you opinion since I like your work and style. I like the clean pure look of the models in their catalogs, for me it is a goal to strife towards. Again, this is just not how actual aircraft weather. View our. I fully agree about the uniform and exaggerated panel line shading. The panel lines of the engine cowl are perfect straight lines looking from the front. To each his own. But the shading between panels is just so exaggerated…not something you would ever see on an aircraft fresh from the factory or at most undergoing initial flight tests. Additionally, the […] When I black base, I’m typically working with very thin paint on top of it. One thing I’ve found more and more with the black basing is that it helps to lighten the paint. I don’t feel like I’ve had a point yet where I’ve overdone it…but if I did I imagine the process could be done in reverse (small random black “marbling”, then add a blend coat). It’s that Easy! Recently I came across this other “shading” method called “black & white shading”. Ask and ye shall receive: https://doogsmodels.com/2015/10/19/panel-lines-do-they-even-exist/. As ever Doogs, lovely work. Thanks Alan! Panel and configuration by Erwin Welker. Ican understand from an artists perspective that something should be seen . Since that time, I’ve found several ways to still get good amounts of tonal variation – only across the entire surface, not just the panels. The idea with pre-shading was that you could airbrush evenly over the pre-shaded panels and the effect would result, but with a black base, aren’t you reliant on being able to spray lots of individual small areas to get a similar effect? As painters, we’re creating art and it’s important to break out of what is commonplace – but we also find plenty of situations where we have to paint unrealistic to create something pleasing to the eyes.I think if we ignore all the little details, then it looks like we’re lazy and missed stuff. Nice, clean paint and goth phase panel lines are just not representative of how things actually happen in the real world. In order for the wash to flow properly into the panel lines, joints and corners of the airplane model kit, the paint mixture should be very thin. Not really. The time taken to highlight them is time wasted to depict something that doesn’t exist in nature. I can say first hand any “new” plane or any aircraft leaving post dock from depot maintenance will have zero panel lines visible. When I still had an airbrush, I experimented with pre shading, but never really cared for the effect. The idea is to make a very thin mix of dark color (black, or dark to medium grays or browns) and apply it with a fine brush to the panel lines and surface detail. I don’t have patience or time and I’m certainly not anal enough to worry that the rudder is too large for scale. Upper three lines of them pass on the thrust line when they are extended, and these angles are 25 , … But a 1/100″ grove on a model is not going to show a shadow like the real plane does so it requires something like pre-shading or black basing to make it show up in a realistic manner. I’m not even saying that panel line shading is bad. Play it too cautious and you may have difficulties covering the gray primer or managing the contrast. OOOOOOH! Which in turn LEAVES this DARK PALL of DARK!!!!!!???? But a move up in scale will demand a lot more when it comes to the paintworks and black primer will save a lot of time compared to going crazy with preshading on a larger scale. The obsession for showing off “panel lines” is ridiculous and unrealistic. You don’t place or anything…WHAT!!! My intent is to talk about shading panel lines (mainly pre-shading, but also post-shading), and why – if you’re pursuing a realistic or verisimilitudinous finish, it’s a terrible technique that should be shunned and mocked. For any kit worth its salt, shading all those panel lines is an exercise in concentration and swearing. I tried pre-shading exactly twice. I do think it’s a very interesting technique, especially when done well. My go-to black primer being Mr. Surfacer 1500. I’d like to agree with you but I can’t. Anybody out there have a so lution? On to some others. I find using silver, grey, or even white to add panel lines on black pieces is always worth the effort. Just look at the “house style”  Hasegawa uses to show off their new kits. It seems like it might be easy to hit a point of no return. BLACK!!!!????? Yes, the panel lines on some aircraft certainly do get filthy. One thing we often forget is that there are people out there that are making a living doing this. There are a lot of other techniques that carry that risk. I just hope that we do not fall into the precipice of over use of technique. Overall – and it’s something I’m still very much trying to work on myself – I think the key is in varying the entire surface of the aircraft. I have been looking for something like black-basing for a long time. And no doubt, I often make “unrealistic” decisions too; like making invasion stripes “perfect” because, well, I just can’t bring myself not to. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Learn how your comment data is processed. And I do use some post shading myself. It’s like a checkerboard. There are different schools of thought about what exactly we are trying to accomplish as modellers.

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